2016 Kusuda Syrah, Martinborough, NZ

The 2016 Syrah is soft, earthy, spicy and intricately detailed, with layers of exotic nuance and seamless tannins. It weaves together notes of black pudding, blood plum, fresh-turned earth, tobacco and finely milled pepper, all framed by gently ferruginous tannins. There’s a beautiful sense of harmony here—everything perfectly in place, with no element out of step. The wine carries itself with quiet confidence and precision, unfolding gracefully across the palate. Now entering a compelling drinking window, it also shows the balance and structure to evolve effortlessly for years to come. A superb, finely composed Syrah, drinking beautifully at ten. Hiroyuki Kusuda’s Martinborough vineyard is one of the most meticulous small-scale operations in the world, with just 1.6 hectares of Pinot Noir and tiny plantings of Syrah and Riesling. His approach is uncompromising—each berry is hand-selected at perfect ripeness, often requiring multiple passes through the vineyard. At harvest, a dedicated team (many travelling from Japan) assists in an extraordinary berry-by-berry sorting process, where only flawless fruit is kept. Production is minuscule, amounting to only a few thousand bottles each year, making these wines highly sought after. The result is Pinot Noir of incredible purity, precision and finesse—an expression of obsessive craftsmanship where every detail is considered and quality is paramount.