Vintage 1940s Sartoria P. Zanghieri Italian Leather Jacket
Made in Modena during the late 1940s, this Sartoria P. Zanghieri blouson reflects a moment when Italian tailoring emerged from the austerity of the war years and began shaping a new visual language for civilian menswear. The cut blends the clean proportion of bespoke tailoring with the practical influences of early utility garments, a balance characteristic of the small northern Italian workshops that defined post-war craftsmanship. Zanghieri was known for his precise hand finishing, and the shaping, seams and button work here demonstrate that level of attention. The jacket is crafted from vegetable tanned calfskin, a material deliberately chosen by Italian ateliers of the period for high grade commissions. Calfskin offered a finer, denser fibre structure than standard cowhide, producing a smoother surface, softer hand and a far more controlled drape. It allowed tailors to sculpt clean lines without the rigidity often found in horsehide, while still providing the durability required for daily wear. The leather on this piece shows a warm chestnut tone with a natural, gentle sheen and subtle creasing that has developed over decades of careful use. Soft, pliable and responsive in the hand, it is an excellent example of mid century Italian calfskin at its best. The jacket remains in very good vintage condition. The leather is clean, supple and evenly matured. The brown rayon lining is intact, and all original brass buttons are secure. Stitching is strong and consistent with artisan construction from the period. The jacket has been professionally cleaned and conditioned in our workshop using methods suited to vintage vegetable tanned leathers. The calfskin retains its natural strength, clarity and character with only light surface variation appropriate for its age. Key Features • Sartoria P. Zanghieri Modena piece from the late 1940s • Vegetable tanned Italian calfskin with a fine, naturally tight grain • Warm chestnut tone with soft sheen and mature surface creasing • Button front closure with structured collar • Twin chest pockets with original brass buttons • Tabbed waistband and shaped hem • Clean brown rayon lining • Strong stitching and intact construction throughout Garment Measurements (Laid Flat) • Chest (armpit to armpit): 22 inches • Shoulders (seam to seam): 18 inches • Sleeve length (shoulder seam to cuff): 23.5 inches • Sleeve length (underarm seam to cuff): 16 inches • Back length (collar seam to hem): 23.5 inches Best suited for a tailored 40 inch chest. Please compare with a similar jacket for accuracy. A well preserved example of post war Italian leather tailoring, this blouson captures the refinement of Modena’s small ateliers and the quiet sophistication of vegetable tanned calfskin. Balanced, characterful and expertly made, it stands as a distinctive survivor of Italy’s mid century leather craft.